Our journey began in the charming village of Domme, perched high above the Dordogne River. Known for its medieval walls and breathtaking views, Domme was the perfect starting point for our adventure. The children were instantly captivated by the winding cobblestone streets and the promise of exploration.
We rented electric bikes, a decision that proved to be both practical and exciting. The bikes allowed us to cover more ground effortlessly, and the children's laughter echoed through the village as we zoomed along the ancient paths. (Note: do make sure your bike is fully charged for the VERY steep hills. Signed, a very tired cyclist.. and yes, your ex-military husbands will find the path less travelled)
From Domme, we cycled to the magnificent Château de Castelnaud. This imposing fortress, with its rich history and spectacular views, was a highlight for the whole family. The interactive exhibits and mediaeval weaponry displays enthralled the sprogs, who imagined themselves as knights defending their castle. The castle’s vantage point offered panoramic views of the lush valley below, a scene straight out of a fairy tale.
One of the joys of the Dordogne is its markets, bursting with fresh produce, cheeses, and artisanal breads. Market day in Sarlat-la-Canéda was a feast for the senses. We wandered through the bustling stalls, sampling creamy cheeses and crusty baguettes, and gathering a picnic feast to enjoy later. The vibrant colours and intoxicating aromas are a tourists dream and what we all dream of when we're trudging through Sainsbury's cheese isle with the trolley that is inevitably wonky and an AWOL child.
With our baskets brimming with market treasures, we headed to La Roque-Gageac for a spot of wild swimming. The Dordogne River, cool and inviting, was the perfect place to escape the summer heat. The children splashed and played in the gentle current while we relaxed on the grassy banks, savouring our picnic and flagon of wine (when in Rome!). Fresh bread, ripe tomatoes and a whole wheel of Reblochon always makes for the best picnic scoff!
Another gem we discovered was the village of Daglan. Smaller and less frequented by tourists, Daglan offered a peaceful pit stop on a biking tour. We poodled through its quaint streets, before parking up the bikes for another cheese-meat-repeat spread on picnic tables by a beautiful lake complete with lovers' bridge. The village’s charm lay in its tranquillity and authenticity, a stark contrast to the busier tourist spots.
The best adventure, as voted for by Sprogs, took us onto the river itself. Canoeing down the Dordogne was an experience that combined the thrill of exploration with the serenity of nature, and a good few tantrums over who was in who's canoe and confusion of paddling on left versus right. Cruising along, we passed beneath medieval castles, through ancient bridges and alongside towering cliffs, with the occasional kingfisher darting across our path. The children’s excitement was palpable as they steered the canoe, faces alight with joy and wonder.
Dordogne has been the best child friendly holiday we have experienced. We were left with memories of sun-dappled days (even some rain didn't dampen our spirits) and star-filled nights. The region’s rich history, natural beauty, and warm hospitality wove a spell over us - that and the cheese... Travelling with children added an extra layer of magic, as we saw the world through their eyes – a world full of adventure, discovery, and endless possibilities. Early morning trips to the village boulangerie offered an opportunity for the children to explore confidence-building language moments as they ordered, ‘deux baguettes et huit croissants s’il sous plait?’ Mysteriously, a pain au chocolate always snuck its way into their bags as they marched home, like Riflemen, with baguettes over their shoulders.
The clincher is going away with like minded friends with children of a similar age who keep each other company and dilute sibling squabbles. An active holiday, but a holiday nonetheless where I actually felt like I didn't just transfer from looking after kids in England to looking after kids in France. It was an adventure and it was a much slower pace, in the way that only the French culture can imbue.
The Dordogne, with its castles, markets, and rivers, proved to be the perfect destination for a family holiday away from the crowds. I rather suspect we shall be back.
